We rode over 15 000km's on our BMW 1200 GS Adventure!
All pictures on this page can be enlarged by clicking on them for a better view!
Departure - 13th August 2008
Well, after Trygve was given a copy of 'The long way round' series, in which Charlie and Euwen set off on an epic motorcycle journey halfway accross the world... and we spent our winter evenings sipping red wine and imagining what it would be like to do something similar... we have decided to take the plunge and do it... As is the rule of the universe, once we'd set our minds on doing the trip, Trygve found the bike of his dreams, a Bmw 12GS Adventure... and all of a sudden it became a reality!
After only 2 consultations of a map of Africa and with only 2 days to pack after my studio show, we set off from Cape Town on the 13th of August... With a roughly plotted itinerary and lots of dried foods we bid goodbye to the comforts of home and set off on what would be one of the adventures af a lifetime!
We left Cape Town at about 2pm and headed straight to BMW to have a tracking device fitted and get all the necessary insurance etc... I felt a huge sence of excitement and also a little bit nervous, but the guys at BMW were so encouraging that I soon felt like a star and was keen to set off agian. We then collected our east Africa Lonely planet from the depot... and got stuck in rush hour traffic, our only consolation was knowing that it would be the last time we sat in a traffic jam for a long while... By the time we neared the Du Toit Kloof tunnel it was pouring with rain so we stopped at the trout farm and dug out our rain gear from the bottom of one of our panniers... We hadn't anticipated needing it so early! Fortunately we managed to outride the rain and made it to Lainsberg before dark... I can't say all that much for the little town... but it does have the BEST biltong in the world! Yummy... we stocked up and lived on it for a day or two!
14th August
Spent a night just outside Bloemfontein. Met Botha, another biker on the road and since we were heading in the same direction, we rode together part of the way and then shared a little cottage just outside of Bloem with him. It was great to feel the camaraderie between bikers and I decided that perhaps being a biker chick isn't that bad after all! (Although I prefer biker goddess!)
15th August - Golden Gate RSA
We met some travelers in the Free State and they suggested we drive through Golden Gate reserve... extremely beautiful mountains and very scenic... we camped for the first time... and it was the coldest night of my life... Had to do some serious nighttime activities to keep warm, much to Trygve's delight! Dined on smash and boiled lentils... surprisingly delicious in that cold weather!16th August...
As you can see, our planned 2 days to JHB were not working out... I think Trygve seriously underestimated the distances we would have to cover on this trip... We decided to skip JHB and cut across KZN because I desperately wanted to go to Ponta Du Oura to swim with dolphins... KZN started looking like Africa for the first time... scenery totally different to what I'm used to and little mud huts scattered across the hilltops.
Spent the night at Shumula Lodge, close to Kozi Bay... Got caught out by darkness and had a very tense hours ride in the dark, dodging people and cattle and potholes... By the time we arrived at the lodge I was pretty exhausted... and starting to miss home!
17th August - Mozambique!
Yay!! Finally cross the border and arrived at Ponta Du Oura... Our bike is so heavily loaded and 2 up there's no way we can ride through sand so I took a transfer with all our luggage and Trygve braved the sandy 10km's to Ponta. It started raining as soon as we arrived so we basically lost 2 days waiting for a chance to go out swimming with the dolphins...
However, we met 2 amazing guys, Dennis and Peter, and our evenings spent sitting around the campfire with them were so enjoyable and lovely that we hardly noticed the rain. Dennis is in the process of moving from London to Cape Town so I hope that we will become fast friends when we return.
19th August - DOLPHINS!!!!
Got up early and met at the dolphin encounters camp for a briefing and then it was out to sea... A bit nerve wracking getting out past the waves... my legs were decidedly shaky... but there were 3 little girls on the boat who were all smiling so I told myself to stop being a baby. We spotted dolphins within a few minutes and Roxy, our guide slipped into the water and beckoned for us to follow... The dolphins were amazing... they seem to love Roxy and swam all around her and looked like they were having a great time playing with her. I loved the experience and would love to have had a whole day out there with them... All too soon it was over and we were heading back to the camp... it was really great that the operator was totally respectful of the dolphins and their moods and as soon as they looked like they'd had enough of us, they let them go off, darting through the waves.... Also, my mom, Verity's birthday!
20th August - Swaziland!
Time to go... it had been raining so we thought we'd brave the road on the bike but within the first 10 minutes we fell over, Trygve, luggage, bike and all... luckily we were in all our protective gear and it was sandy so no one hurt... I hitched a ride with our luggage and met Trygve at the border... he dropped the bike another 2 times on his own and had to wait for someone to pass to help get it up again...the bike alone weighs about 250kg... with us and luggage it's about 450kg!!
We traveled through Swaziland (my first time) and found a lovely old colonial style guest house where we spent the night and Trygve was able to swim and do some yoga for his sore back... We must have been quite a site stretching next to the pool! We passed miles and miles of sugar cane on the sides of the roads and eventually Trygve stopped (as I knew he would) and cut a piece for me which we enjoyed right there in the field... divine!
21st August - Back to Mozambique!
LONG ride to Xai Xai, Mozambique... very slow going with lots of dirt roads, potholes and goats. (Baby goats must be one of the cutest creatures on the planet!!) Found a campsite and set up our tent but the energy there felt all wrong and we had a very early night and were eager to set off again. We were joined for our breakfast of bananas and papayas by a troupe of monkeys... so naughty, Trygve nicknamed them the blue balled bastards! One of them pinched a banana right out my hands!
22nd August
Arrived at Coconut Bay, close to Inhambane... pure paradise. We had the whole campsite to ourselves, including a little restaurant and our own private chef! On our journey to Coconut Bay we stopped and ate lanho, baby coconuts that are still in their shell and the flesh is still soft and sweet... divine... the milk is supposed to be excellent to protect against malaria. We were surrounded by people, lots of curious faces and puzzled expressions... when we tell people we're on our way from CT to Kenya they often ask if it's too expensive to go by car, they can't believe we're doing this for the adventure! Trygve pretended to slip on a banana peel and had all the kids in hysterics! It was our first interaction with the locals and I left feeling great! We dropped the bike again on the road to the campsite... Trygve not happy but I reminded him that it's all part of the adventure!
We spent 2 days on the beach, enjoying a well deserved rest from riding and getting a beautiful tan! One day we bought a fresh fish off the beach and asked the chef to prepare it for us... I had itchy lips the next day... some kind of allergic reaction! But yummy! Trygve was in his element, doing summersaults and handstands in the sea! As for me... I'm having a wonderful time... but my skin is a warzone... at first I thought it was from eating chocolates everyday while riding in SA but I have since cut out all the junk food and it's only getting worse... don't know if it's from the sunscreen, the anti mozzie spray or medication... the heat.... nerves... but my face, neck and chest are truly a depressing sight for a goddess to behold. I'm feeling like Rudolph the red nose reindeer... Spotty Dog... Pimply Pam! Have started avoiding mirrors all together.
We met some local kids on the beach and they laughed like crazy when Trygve pretended to eat a live crab... then I got up and did a little belly dancing for them... at first they imitated me and then they showed me some of their own moves... which I tried to copy but that just made them laugh even more! Those are great moments but they always end with the now familiar cry "give me sweets... give me cash...."
25th August
I forgot to mention that T had his hair cut very short for the trip and was dismayed to see how much grey fell to the floor... I joked that I should rename him silvercloud! Later when I reminded him that we still needed to name the bike, he said that he thought I'd named it Silvercloud... He got the sulks when I said I was referring to him!! So I gave in and named the bike instead!
We left paradise and headed for Vilancoulous. Again, we didn't really resonate with the energy of Vilancoulous but found a nice place to set up camp and then took a trip in a dhow to a little island called Magaruki where we spent about 2 hours snorkeling and seeing beautiful fish life! Had a delicious lunch of barracuda and sauce on the island and T and I ate enough for 2 days!
26th August...
Woke up before 6am as we'd gone to bed at about 8pm. The sun sets at about 5and by 5:30 it's just about dark. I am dismayed that my skin is just getting worse.. I'm starting to feel really depressed about it. Oh and the toilet shower at this campsite is gross... Feeling negative and tired today. Shed a few tears and wondering what we're doing here! T and I getting on each others nerves.
27th August
Night in Beira, Mozambiques second largest town... camped in front of old dilapidated caravans and containers and were kept awake by the security guards chatting all night. It's starting to get extremely hot... 34.5 degrees today... and I have to wear a jersey at night to keep the mosquitoes away...
28th August
My Dad's birthday and couldn't get hold of him... but I was thinking of you Daddy!
We had another long ride today... very bad roads... lots of potholes and a goat with a death wish who nearly sent us to heaven... fortunately both the goat and the humans survived. I hurt my ankle badly as I had my legs hanging and we hit a pothole and my leg went flying backwards into the pannier... badly bruised and very sore but I don't think anything seriously wrong...
Thank goodness for my FABULOUS biker boots! (I spent 2 weeks looking for suitable boots as I was trying to avoid the biker chick look but I am now totally hooked on my funky boots!) Ended up at Tete... on the Zambezi river... camping under a huge neon cross... quite a special night with crocodiles drifting by on the current. Had a dinner of green tea and cashew nuts!
29th August - Malawi! The warm heart of Africa...
Got an early start and crossed the border into Malawi. Border crossing took 2 hours of red tape... not fun, especially with the temperature 36 degrees and in all my biking gear. Money changers harassing you non stop... oh my goodness... was very glad when we could finally ride off with our passports stamped, our import duties paid, our third party insurance organized etc etc etc.....
Malawi is much cleaner and seems more organized. Very friendly people, they call it the warm heart of Africa... We are now at Lake Malawi... very beautiful and I hope to have a few days to relax... We met a Capetonian, Eugene, on the road and he invited us to stay in his house on the lake... so I'm really looking forward to swimming, tanning and relaxing and of course, am enjoying my first internet access!!!
So far I have had a mainly positive experience.... The scenery had been amazing, from tall palm trees swaying in the sea breeze to dusty savannah landscapes with huge baobab trees dominating the landscape... pineapple fields interspersed with thatched huts and sugar cane fields... Dark faces peering curiously at our white skin... tastes, sounds, smells and sensations new and unfamiliar...
I am so grateful that I am able to do this trip with Trygve and that I can trust him to share the beauty (and harshness) of the world with me... And thank you also to my FD teachers who have made it possible for me to be away for 6 weeks... Without you I couldn't do this trip... Thank you to the FD goddesses who stay loyal to the FD, I look forward to seeing you all in October!
Something strange though, since we've been in real Africa... I've started feeling broody... It must be that most of the women here have babies on their backs and everything is so fertile... I have had baby fantasies everyday... I hope it's just an African thing... and will be sure to keep taking my melodene!
All these little creatures.... Makes you want to bring one home!
30 August
Had a great evening with Eugene and his housemate Radu... Eugene got out his guitar and played us some 'egte' Cape Town style music... We had a dance... and Eugene claimed I made his night! Very interesting evening hearing how the local expats feel about living in Africa... eventually one of the guests got so rude that I went to bed.
Left Eugene's place to head towards Cape MacLean where we set up camp at Chembe Eagles Lodge... once again we had the campsite to ourselves and it was a little piece of paradise. We took a trip with a local named green, a beautiful man with beautiful arms... on a dug out canoe, not very comfortable but very memorable... we snorkeled from island and the fish life is incredible.. it was like being inside a huge tropical fish tank... and warm water... a delicious lunch of fresh fish and rice with a yummy sauce... had to put on a top over my bikini after lunch to hide the buldge! At night the lake is full of fishermen on their canoe's... all lit up and beautiful... Our time here was really special.... The island has a local colony of fish eagles... their cries echo across the bay all day and they can be seen fishing and soaring all along the coastline... our spirits are flying high with them, the king of the skies!
31st August...
Trygve get's bad diarrhea... spent a day on the loo and trying various local remedies... felt ok in the late afternoon so we took a private catamaran sunset cruise through 'the gap' where Trygve spotted some otters and huge leguans... Feeling so privileged to be on this trip... keep pinching myself to see if it's real... every time Trygve mentioned doing something like this I told him I'd never do it and now here we are....
I forgot to mention that the local specialty in Malawi, which we were offered when we crossed the border... is roasted mice... delicious looking... specially since they still have their fur on! Needless to say... we didn't try any... although Trygve was tempted to take one home for Saskia!
1st September
A difficult day as we had to leave eagles nest. A lovely day of riding... once we arrived along the lake passed Nkhotakota the scenery became really beautiful.... lots of forests and very green. The road is lined with rubber tree plantations... I didn't know that rubber came from trees! Bought Saski a little rubber ball for when we get back... hope she's still talking to us!
Arrived in Nkhata Bay... an old hippy village with a combi parked on the side of the road with slogans like ' I love dagga' painted all over it... Everyone seems high from the local specialty... Malawi gold. Trygve stayed here 20 years ago and took me to the original campsite which I didn't like so I had a mini tantrum and insisted on looking around until we found the perfect little hide out... A small bamboo love shack right on the waters of the lake... We fell asleep listening to the gentle lapping of the waves against the stilts of the hut... 'The whole shack shimmied!'
3rd September...
This morning we're exploring the little village and market... looking for mandazi (small sweetish vetkoek like buns) to have with sweet bananas and the local peanut butter which is the best in the world! I'm getting into my Nali, the hottest sauce in Africa...
5th September - Tanzania!
We have now done over 6000km's!
Today we crossed the border from Malawi into Tanzania! We spent 2 hours stuck at the border... Trygve did all the paperwork since he speaks Swahili so it was his first time attending to the red tape... He finally realized what a lot of work it is! We are camping overnight at a coffee plantation called Utengule Country Hotel, close to Mbeya. Feeling exhausted tonight but really looking forward to getting to Iringa tomorrow and visiting the Ruaha National Park... It will be my first time in a 'real' gamepark!
The scenery has changed dramatically... from dry red dust roads and small mud and reed huts punctuated by boabab trees in Malawi, in Tanzania we travelled the highlands and mountains around Tukuyu overlooking lake Malawi. Now the landscape is dominated by kilomiteres of tea plantations, banana and papaya trees and more modern, western infuluenced brick houses. It's colder here too... since we are surrounded by the Poroto Mountains to the SE and the Mbeya range to the North, Mbeya is at approx 6000feet altitude. It's the first time I have needed a gersey since we left South Africa.
My skin is still a total mess... I think it must be the Doxycyclene we're taking to ward off malaria... Trygve said last night I have a pimple for every star in the sky!! Today while riding I started planning a festival for next year... I think 200km's passed with me deep in thought and starting to feel very excited about the idea... so the Feminine Divine is never far from my mind and always in my heart!
Oh, and we ate the most delicious, vanilla/citrus flavoured banana's today... delicious! I'm putting on a few extra kilo's I'm afraid... so I will be back at Curves with a vengance when we return! Oh, and maybe a belly sweat class to get us all in shape for summer!
8th September
We are back in Iringa for a little stock up of necessities... which include facial wipes as I have run out of make up remover and am using the last wipe... for the third day in a row... so far no luck though... We spent the last 2 nights in the Ruaha National Park (Tanz)... first night we camped at a little lodge outside the park and then got an early start and arrived at the park entrance at about 7am... We saw elephants within the first 5 minutes which was amazing... The park is the largest in Tanzania and it was wonderful to see that there are still some places where the animal kingdom is still intact and beautiful!
We were very lucky as Trygve has an old friend who owns the most beautiful camp in the Ruaha park... Mwagusi Safari Camp. Chris Fox has created a luxurious haven for travellers and his eye for and attention to detail is evident in each corner... Thanks to his offering us an amazing deal we were able to spend a night at Mwagusi, one of the most beautiful places in the world... Chris's own personal home is a dream come true... totally open to the elements and finished with all natural materials... Chris showed us where they had to be weary of leapards hiding when he had his first son as the babies cries would attract leaopards.
I wished we could stay forever... and imagined teaching my classes in the dry river bed surrounded by elephants, monkeys and bush squirrells... Divine. The lions would have to keep their distance though as there is only room in the Feminine Divine for one (drama) queen! Our Banda overlooked the river bed and was dwarfed by a huge baobab tree... On our way back from the evening game drive we nearly walked straight into an elephant that was quietly grazing right outside our banda... fortunately we had a guide with us who made sure I didnt' scream and run away! My legs were shaking for half an hour afterwards... Dinner was served by candlelight in the riverbed and it was a truly magical experience that I will never forget. Once again an elephant made an apperance just a few meters from the dinner table, quietly digging for water in the candlelight... not paying us any attention. It was the most luxurious nigth we have enjoyed while on the trip and one that we will not be able to repeat for a long time so I am really glad that Trygve and I could share such a magical evening under the boababs and stars and the indifferent gaze of a beautiful wild elephant.
Karibu sana... you are very welcome... we have been so warmly received since in Tanzania... I met some of Trygve's old friends from when he lived here 13 years ago which was lovely... Wonderful to meet them and see how fondly they remember him! My Swahili is getting quite good... kidogo kidogo... little by little I am learning... Na kupenda Tanzania and na kupenda my goddesses too! (I love you!)
We realize now that our planned itinerary (which we deviated from since day 1) is not going to work out and we'll have to cut out some places if we are to make it home by 1st October as planned... but I am so happy at the moment and feeling so alive and inspired and excited about life that I am happy with whatever route we take home and however long it takes... hakuna matata! oh well, there are infact a few worries... my ever expanding waist (thank goodenss we can't stay at luxury parks because all you do is eat...) and my spots... oh, and my smudgy eyes if I don't find some facial wipes... but hey, if those are my worries I'm very lucky!
At the border I took a huge sip of water from our little filter and got a mouthful of 10 million ants... in clusteres... yummy! I spat them out with such force that I have now been renamed... Spitting Ant!
On our way out of the park we popped into Ruah Hilltop Lodge... and once again, received a typical warm Tanzanian welcome... we were served piping hot popcorn and fresh pineapple juice overlooking the savanah... Beautiful rooms and wonderful hosts.. we will definately visit again if we are ever in Tanz...
Below is an email I received from Graham, he and his dad helped us get Silvercloud out of some tough sand in Cocontu Bayand were increadibly helpful and great to spend some time with...
Hi there guys....
Just got back to zim last Saturday (31st Aug) and have been on the net and have been following your trip diary,very good.We all wish you two the best
of luck and do not quit for anything,you are both in our thought and prayers....stay safe!
Hope you get this message when next you down load,if you do please let me know,don't want to be sending emails if you are not getting them.
I am quite serious about my offer of help here if it is required.I know you are not planning to come through Zim but you never know? Have sent through my pledge of R150-00,hopefully i can give it to you in person when i am next in Cape Town!?
Take care guys and god bless
Regards
Graham (Coconut bay)
13th September Kenya
We crossed the border from Tanzania into Kenya and met my first Masai who was exceptionally beautiful!
We felt great to have made it to our destination atlast and settled in at the Twiga lodge right on the beach... divine. The water is so warm and inviting... Trygve has hardly stopped swimming...
I have an increadible book, The house of the spirits by Isabel Allende which I can't put down. In the evening we took the ferry accross to Mombassa and tried to do some internet catching up but it took 30 minutes just to open the first facebook page so I gave up. Everything is very quiet because of Ramadaan but we passed through the famous elephant tusks that were built over the road in the shape of an M in honor of the queen's visit some time ago.
We met a couple at the supermarket who invited us to their birthday party that evening so we went off to Forty Theives and joined in with some civilized party people. (all very beautiful.. I think they only mix with models!)
We're now starting to run out of time so we have to leave Kenya already... but we're heading towards the Masai village so I'm very excited!
The Masai!
13 years ago Trygve had a friend (a Masai) who invited him to stay in his village so we're hoping to find him agains all odds... The trip started off well, we crossed the border from Kenya back into Tanzania and stopped in a lovely little town for lunch where we met one of the border officials who was increadibly friendly and dissapointed to see that we had spent so little time in his country.
After lunch we headed off towards Handeni where Trygve thought we might be able to trace his Masai friend. After stopping every Masai within a few Km's, we were advised to take a dirt road and keep showing everyone the pictures we'd brought along... But once again, thick sand got the better of us and we had another fall... this time we were going a bit faster than usual for sand and I flew right over Trygve's head and landed in the sand (fortunately) infront of the bike... Thankfully just a few bruises and no serious injuries... It was strange because although it must have happended very fast, I had lots of time to register what was happening and worry that I would land on Trygve and hurt him! Later in the evening we were still heading down the same dirt road and we nearly rode over a HUGE puffadder... I nearly jumped out of my skin... and right off the bike. 5 minutes later I burst into tears and spend the rest of the ride longing for home...
Back to our Masai serach... all we knew was that the man we were looking for was named Jacob and that he had lived in the area 13 years ago... We searched 2 villages asking for Jakob and purely by chance we walked into a little shop were all the Masai elders were gathering for a meeting. We told them our story and a man stood up and said, 'but I am Jakob'. Amazing...
Once again, Jacob invited us to stay and we were suddenly immersed in Masai culture... We took gifts of sugar, soap, sweets and gin to give to the chief, only to discover that Jakob is now chief of his village... we spent a very beautiful evening sitting outdoors on little wooden chairs and listening to the sounds of the vultures, owls and the cattle that were peacefully sleeping next to us.
In the morning the flies descended by the thousands and the romantic idea I had about life in the village was suddenly hit with a harsh dose of reality. All water has to be fetched from a dam which is a good walk away, and there is no electricity, so by the last morning we were starting to get a bit smelly and no amount of swatting could keep the flies away.
A goat was slaughtered for supper... I was invited to watch but I knew if I did I would never be able to eat anything... Trygve was offered fresh blood right out the goats heart area... but he couldn't manage that and fortunately is secure enough in his manhood to have been able to decline the offer!
I asked the women in the village to dress me in their traditional clothing... which they did and it was really amazing. Of course they all thought it was very funny! and when I saw the pictures I just thought I look FAT!
I am very glad to have had those days in the Masai village and they were 2 very happy, stimulating days, but by the time we left I was very ready to get back to some running water and wash my hair and the dirt out from under my fingernails! Jacob and everyone in his village was increadibly accomodating and really made us feel welcome! The Masai people are really inspiring in everything they do and I really felt blessed to have the opportunity to stay with them for a short while.
Jacob runs a company called Masai Morani Dance Group... check out their website and support their cause... They are currently raising funds to build a new school where Masai children can be educated! http://paringo.multiply.com
23rd September - Crossing from Tanzania into Zambia
Wow, there have been so many adventures... and the internet connection is so slow that I'll try and keep it short and catch up more once I'm home... but today I want to tell:
The Terrible Tale of the Tazara Disaster!
We decided to treat ourselves to a few days off from riding by putting ourselves and the bike on the Tazara train which runs from Tanzania into Zambia. It's supposed to be a 3 day journey that would save us 2000km's and give us time to sleep and relax a bit...
so we booked our 1st class sleeper coach tickets and looked forward to it.
The previous day we visited Zanzibar which was lovely but we had to rush back on the 7am ferry to be sure to be back intime to load the bike etc... Well, needless to say, we arrived at the station only to discover that instead of the train leaving at 2pm it would only be leaving at 8pm that night... but the bike was on so we were stuck at the station, in the first class lounge where the ceiling boards were either rotten or missing and out of 15 lights, only 1 was working. I finished the book I'd been saving for the train ride while waiting and at 9pm we finally boarded the train. (no power on the train so all this was done in the pitch dark... fumbling our way down the platform and onto the train, trying not to loose any of our luggage etc.)
Finally we were on our way and the lights came on and all seemed well! Or so it would seem. I took a bottle of doom with me because I am PARANOID about bugs and lice on trains, so I gave our compartment a good fumigation before we settled in.
The first night was good as we were so tired that we fell asleep really quickly and didn't wake up until the next morning... but then the problems started. Somehow they managed to run out of fuel... don't ask me how it's possible when it's a journey that's made by the same company 3 times a week and by now they surely know how much fuel they'll need... Anyway, so we spent an hour or two on the road to nowhere... happily singing and writing and not worrying too much about it. But then, a few hours later we were stuck again. In the end we ran our of fuel 4 times... the last time it took 4 hours to get fuel. Because of the delay, it was the middle of the night when we crossed the border so we were woken up at 11:30 to get stamped out of Tanzania, then again at 12 to get stamped into Zambia, and again at 12:30 by the police who asked if we had anything to declare... now let me asure you that when you are woken by the police in the middle of the night, you do all in your power to get rid of them ASAP! I said no and then realized that I probably should have declared the bike... but too late... so I went back to sleep hoping for the best.
We should have arrived at Kapiri Mposhi at 9am on the 21st but eventually arrived at 2am 22nd... and were told to get off the train. We were not about to leave our beloved silvercloud on the train all alone so we quietly sneaked back into our little cabin and slept on the train for the rest of the night, after having been told it was not allowed. Trygve loves such clandestine activities... I on the otherhand developed an asthma attack and nearly died every time I heard a guard patrolling outside our window!
oh my word, so by morning we were totally kaputt, and I was in a terrible mood... we then had to spend 2 hours offloading the bike and getting it through customs... There was some damage to the bike as a result of the trip, a broken front light, cracked wind screen and a long scratch on the pannier... but all still in working condition and that's what's important at this stage! The strange thing was that no one that we spoke to bothered to apologise for the nearly 24 hour delay and most people just laughed... Which leads me to the conclusion that the Tazara railway is a joke and a bad one at that...
24th September - Livingston, Zambia
Thankfully the Tazara is now in the past, never to be revisited! Our first stop in Zambia was Lusaka where we met with a journalist, Tiffany, from 'The Post' who interviewd us about our trip and where we were able to spread the message we'd decided to adopt as our slogan... Follow your dreams! It is not always easy and takes hard work and sometimes sacrifices... but in the end anything can be achievable if you put your mind to it!
We got on the bike and proceeded down the WORST road of the entire trip to Livingston. The ride was painful, frustrating and dangerous... The road (if one can call it that) completely disintegrated in parts and where there was a little bit of tar it was full of potholes and ditches and dust... It felt like riding on a wild stallion that was determined to throw us to the floor... Apparantly the people in this district didn't vote for the president so he's punishing them by letting their roads all go to hell. And that's exactly how it felt... if our ride into Livingston had had a soundtrack... it would have to come with a warning... 'parental guidence advised: explicit lyrics'.... So all is not always rosy in paradise!
We checked into Jolly Boys Backpackers in Livingston, a really wonderful place with a pool and hot water!!! Bliss... I spent about an hour in the shower and managed to do some washing... my goddess pants are taking serious strain and have a hole in them. It was our first proper shower in 3 days!!
We visited the Victoria falls which were breathtaking... really awe inspiring and magnificent. I would have liked to have a whole day to spend there...
When we were in Malawi we were told about an amazing little hippy island in the Zambezi river in Zambia and we were very keen to go and explore it so we booked a 2 night package for Bovu Island (previously Jungle Junction). http://www.junglejunction.info/bovu.htm
Brett, the owner is a crazy character who regaled us with tales of crocodile hunts and the joys of jiggy jiggy until early morning. Our package included a sunset cruise which was heavenly except for the millions of little river flies that seemed to love our skin. We spent a day on the beach, dipping in the shallows and keeping a weary eye open for hippos and crocodiles... After 2 falls on the bike and about 10 000km's completed injury free, I went around a corner to change into my bikini and slipped in some mud and strained and grazed my ankle and bruised my hip badly... Typical.
We met a lovely couple on the island, Ali and Andy, and really enjoyed swopping travel stories with them. Ali and I got the giggles each time we looked at Brett in his funny hat, yelling 'Jiggy jiggy' and downing vodka after vodka. (him not us!)
We were woken up in the middle of the night by what sounded like human footsteps but what must have been a hippo grazing just beneath our little banda. We went our to check what was out there, but couldn't spot the creator of those sounds... but we did see a beautiful little gennet, a wild cat like creature who made me miss my little Saskia even more! I would have loved to have more time at Bovu and will definately go back one day for a 2 week holiday.
25th September - Crossing into Namibia
This was the hottest day of the entire trip, 40.5 degrees. We didn't get far on the bike because I keep falling asleep and headbanging Trygve who is concerned that I'll fall off. At the border between Zambia and Namibia (Katima Molilo) everyone seems to be on autopilot... the heat is just too much and no one is really fully awake or even alive. We set up camp on the river... still the Zambezi and listen to the hippos grunting and splashing. Trygve was stung by a wasp and insisted that I suck out the poison... he was probably glad for the excuse to finally get a love bite from me... However, he spent the evening looking very forlorn.
26th September - Most distance covered in 1 day - 900km's!
We traveled from Katima Molilo to Rundu and then on towards Grootfontein and then finally set up camp at Tsumeb where there was a group of people playing their Afrikaans treffers including some really tasteless remixes. We sent them bad vibes until they got the message and finally turned it down just after 10pm which is extremely late when you're camping and you've just ridden 900km's! Things like that tend to put me in a very bad mood! Not to mention the fact that the next day I had their freeking treffers going round and round in my head and there was no where to escape to since they were in my head!
27th September - Etosha National Park and losing our tempers!
I am honestly not usually someone who loses my temper in public... infact the only person who ever bares witness to my fury is Trygve, as he is usually the one who incites it! Therefore, when I say that I lost my temper at Etosha park, you can rest assured that it must have been a truly gruelling experience worthy of such a scene!
The night before our arrival at Etosha we called the park to see if there was space available in their campsite as room prices are totally over the top. We were told by the person on the other end that he didn't know if they had a campsite so we were left with no option but to book a room for the next evening. He who shall not be named, hereafter reffered to as Hwsnbn, then informed us that if we were coming on the bike we would need to book a transfer from the park gate to the lodge as we wouldn't be able to enter the park on our bike. We said it wasn't necessary as we'd try and hitch a ride into the park once we got there.
Well, we arrived at the gate and told the lady there that we had a room waiting for us inside the park and she instructed us to park the bike around the corner... which we did. Trygve flagged down a bakkie and I rushed over to tell the lady that we were on our way... only to be told that there was a vehicle on it's way to fetch us and take us to the camp. I passed this little bit of info on to Trygve who is not one to be told what to do and was promptly piled onto the back of the bakie along with a mother who was very publicly nursing her twins... I am sure this accounts for Trygve's choice of vehicle!
Needless to say upon our arrival at reception we were met by an irate Hwsnbn who refused to check us into our room until we paid for the transfer that we did not request... I sat outside in the scortching heat, fully dressed in my most flattering biking attire, gaurding our luggage which was piled against the wall of the lookout tower. 20 minutes later I was thouroughly bored and virtually baked alive so I went to enquire as to what progress had been made, only to find Trygve and Hwsnbn engaged in a rather ugly argument. When I tried to make some progress I was told by Hwsnbn that he doesn't care about me.... Well my dears... you can well imagine that this sent me flying into a rage! I felt like I was being propelled towards Hwsnbn and that I would kill him with my bare hands... fortunately there must have been some inch of reason left within me and it was this trickle of treason that instructed me to walk out rather than end up as a murderer in an african jail.
About 2 hours later we were finally given the go ahead by the head of the park and checked into our room, extremely hot and bothered and really feeling quite miserable about the whole affair. There was a very charming young man who helped us get settled in, Macdonald, if you ever read this... you saved the day! He was helpful, apologetic, kind and reasonable... the exact opposite of they guy we had been dealing with all afternoon.
Finally, after sunset we were able to sit down at the waterhole and enjoy a sundowner and get a good look at the wildlife in the park! The night was dominated by rhino.... In the earie dusk light they came trundling out of the far realms of the park, looking even more prehistoric in the strangely lit scene.... while curious onlookers whispered and clicked away at their cameras.
Trygve would not let me go to bed until just before midnight... and all evening, more and more rhino kept coming to drink. In the morning there were zebras by by the thousand and in their wake came many more animals.... I must have taken a million zebra photos because I deleted the majority and still seem to have thousands!
After a delicious breakfast... we were faced with the task of hitching a ride out of the park, knowing we certainly couldn't rely on the help of any of the staff, I set about looking as glamorous as possible and as heavily laden as I could bare... A lovely South African couple picked us up and dropped us at the gate where Trygve was reunited with his beloved Silvercloud. He had been having nightmares about the staff having sabotaged the bike as revenge for the ugliness upon check in.... but all was well and I told him to stop manifesting problems and get on with the task at hand... that of getting me home safely to my little Saskia... by now I was starting to feel like home was just around the corner and I wanted to get back as quickly as possible.
In Windhoek we met up with writers from the Algermeiner and The Republican and did a short interview with each... if you can read German you can check out the article here: http://www.az.com.na/tourismus/reiseberichte/mit-dem-motorrad-vom-kap-nach-kenia-und-wieder-zurck.74626.php
From Windhoek we headed out to Keetmanshoop where we set up camp at the Quivertree forest rest camp... We dine on biltong and cashew nuts and toast the setting sun and the last few days of our trip with a glass of Jack Daniels, the last little bottle that we have in stock!
In the morning... after yet another FREEZING cold night, Trygve wakes me just before sunrise and insists on going for a sunrise walk through the forest... only to insist on doing a nude shoot amoungst the trees... I can not even begin explain how cold I was... and I look so sulky in the pictures that only the ones taken from the back are any good!! I was overjoyed to see that my bottom was not giving away too many signs that I had eaten out just about every day for 2 months!!
Our final night was spent at the Felix Unite River Camp on the Orange River where Trygve has an old friend, Carlos, who welcomed us with open arms and made our last night a very special and memorable one! We dined on a good old fashioned braai... yummy! and enjoyed the sound of the river flowing by and the twinkling of stars above our heads.
We had stayed with Carlos many years before, when we flew into the camp in Trygve's microlight.... So Carlos probably hasn't seen the last of us... microlights, motorbikes.... I wonder how we will arrive next time!
There's no place like home....
Our last day on the road was wonderful except for the cold... We suddenly had to get used to temps of about 11 degrees, and after having gotten used to the scortching heat, we were both frozen to the bone.... but knowing that home was getting closer and closer made it bearable... I phoned my mom and sister as soon as we crossed the border... and my mom's 'this is the best voice I've heard all week' was just what I needed to get me through the final long hours of travelling....
Our lawn looked like one of the African fields we'd just left behind us and we had a good giggle about what our neighbors must be saying.... With Saskia once again firmly cuddled up in my arms and Trygve holding us both tight... we felt a wonderful sence of accomplishment and joy at what we'd just achieved!
To anyone who had a dream they feel they can't fulfill.... The only person stoping you is you!! Life is meant to be lived! I am profoundly blessed to have a life partner who has taught me this and taken me out to see and be taught by the world! I can't wait until the next adventure!!!!!!!!
suffusing
every cell and fibre
and infusing
all our cells and fibres.
you were back.
Poem by Zen Jen - honorary Feminine Divine poet and creative inspirer!